When to Plant

Planting Guide - What to Plant, When

A guide to planting dates for herbs and vegetables

By Brad Sylvester

Every year as the snows start to melt, I get anxious to get out and start planting. I can satisfy my gardening urges by starting some plants indoors, but I have to wait until it's warm out and the danger of the cold killing my plants is over before getting things planted directly into the ground.  Some plants can withstand a light frost, others not so much.  So what do I plant when?  Assuming you've already decided what to plant this year, here's a handy list of things that I'm planting this year or have planted in the past. Each vegetable or herb is listed here with how long each plant takes to mature, and when to plant them (along with any brief planting notes).  The maturity times are per the supplier's recommendation. Temperature, the amount of water, and soil conditions can cause these times to vary wildly, so I suggest keeping your own records of planting and harvest dates so you know exactly what to expect from year to year.  All the planting times listed are relative to the danger of frost being past in your area.  Here's a link that will give you the planting zone for your location and the first and last frost dates.  First & Last Frost by Zone

Remember, weather can be fickle, and the first and last frost dates are historical averages- exceptions do happen. Leaving a safety margin is a good idea. Row covers can extend the growing season both in the spring and late fall by protecting your plants from frost. Frost precipates from air above your plants, so covering them will keep them frost free and help them survive a little longer. A hard freeze, though, can penetrate ordinary row covers and kill delicate plants.  Some plants have their own internal antifreeze and can survive over the winter with no problem others are very sensitive to cold temperatures.

I have also included a link to seeds for each item in case you need to order seeds. Clicking the link will take you to the seed supplier where you will also find a much more detailed description of each vegetable as well as more information about preferred soil conditions and spacing for each plant.  Everything is in more or less alphabetic order for your convenience. Note: where I couldn't find a link to the exact variety that I describe, I have linked to the closest match I could find.  Most of the links lead to Gurney's website. I personally order from them every year. I recommend them for seeds and small plants like strawberries and asparagus. I don't recommend them for larger plants or trees. For bigger plants like trees, grape vines and such, you'll do much better to visit a local nursery and pick out a healthy specimen. You'll get a much larger specimen and will get fruit faster with a lowered chance of the plant dying in my experience.  I do have two black walnut trees that I ordered from Gurney's when we first moved to New Hampshire in 2006.  They arrived as bare root stock about 12" tall and are doing well. If you can't find the variety you want locally, then there is nothing wrong with ordering trees online, just expect smaller specimens and be prepared to give them a little extra TLC for the first year or two.

Eventually, I'll include a link to any recipes on our site for each plant as well, but there are only so many hours in a day...

Arugula Rocket Greens Dark green leaf lettuce-type leaves, ideal for salads or sandwiches.

Arugula, Rocket - 42 days to maturity- Plant in the ground as soon as the soil can be worked.  Arugula is a fantastic addition to add flavor to leafy green salads, just pick larger leaves and this fast growing plant will continue to produce all summer and into the fall. Arugula also makes a great replacement for lettuce on hamburgers when you want to add a little more flavor. In our Connecticut herb garden our arugula self-seeded and came up on its own year after year. We'll be improving and expanding our dedicated herb garden at our new Sylvan Gardens location in New Hampshire in 2009 and definitiely adding Rocket Arugula. It's a little colder up here so we'll have to wait and see if it can sustain itself from year to year here or if we need to replant it each spring. When we plant Rocket Arugula  in the spring of 2009, we'll add the exact planting date here.

Large-Leafed Italian Basil Herbs Broad, crinkled oval leaves are nicely spicy.

Basil, Large Leaf Italian - 90 days to maturity - can be planted directly outside after the danger of frost has passed, or started early indoors. Harvest as soon as leaves are big enough to use.  There are few dishes better on a summer evening than fresh basil, picked straight from the garden, with sliced tomatoes, and fresh parmagian cheese topped with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar... Basil can also be used fresh in salads or to season many other recipes. At the end of the season, pick all the remaining leaves and dry them.  The dried leaves can be used just like the dried store-bought basil that you use for cooking. After it's dried, keep it in a sealed jar, away from temperature extremes and moiture. You can prolong the harvest by pinching off any forming flower buds. They'll come fast and furious when they start so you'll really need to keep up with this. Basil can also be grown indoors during the winter on a sunny window - far enough away from the glass to protect it from freezing drafts. We've added a small indoor hydronics set-up this year for herbs and basil is one of the herbs we've included. So we hope to have fresh basil all year round.

Beans, Tri-color Bush, Gold, Purple & Green - 55 days to first harvest - plant directly outdoors once night temperatures stay above 55 degrees. - This is a mix of three varieties of beans.  They were hardy produciers for us in 2007 so we're going with them again this year.  Pick them early and often, if the beans are left on the plant too long, it will stop producing new blossoms. In 2008, we bought these seeds from the same manufacturer at a local nursery and had poor results. I think next year we'll focus on climbing beans instead of the bush varieties like these.

Improved Golden Wax Bush Beans Gurney's Choice Blemish-free, bright yellow pods are stringless, 4-5 inches long, with a big, buttery flavor.

Beans, Improved Golden Wax - 50 days to first harvest - These beans can be planted directly in the ground once all danger of frost is past. Staggered plantings will extend the harvest season.  Pick early and pick often for the highest yield. These did well for us in 2008, although we are planning to focus on pole beans in 2009 to maximize our space, we'll certainly include some wax beans again. They are softer and more tender than most green beans and offer a more flavorful  and more colorful option. We often mix them with green beens on the dinner table. If the beans a re low to the ground, watch for evidence of slugs or snails munching on the beans at night. You'll see the damage on the beans themselves if there is a problem. Wax beans seem to be a little more vulnerable, perhaps because they are more tender. Beer saucer slug traps can help.  I'll put up a new page about slug and snail control and link from here when time permits. Beans are also a nitrogen fixer, meaning they add nitrogen to your garden soil. By rotating beans with other crops, you can keep your soil's nitrogen content high and avoid the need for commercial fertilizers.

Beet, Perfected Detroit - 58 days to maturity - Sow directly outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked, you can plant again in June or July for a second later harvest.  When you thin the young plants, use them for salads or boil them like spinach.  You can use leaves from the mature plants like spinach as well.  Broccoli, Green Goliath - 55 days to maturity - start indoors 4-6 weeks before planting outside

Broccoli, Green Goliath - 55 days to maturity - Start indoors 4-6 weeks before transplanting.  Harvest the crown before the florets open into little flowers and the plant may produce more crowns.

Birdhouse Gourd - 95 days to maturity - start indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting (especially if you have a shorter growing season)

Cantaloupe, Hearts of Gold - 90 days to harvest - start indoors as early as possible - row covers in the early spring and fall may help extend the growing season .  I have to admit that I haven't had a lot of success with cantaloupe this far north, last year we had one plant and got one small fruit.  This plant really likes the warm weather and will do better in the South.

Carrot, Tendersweet - 75 days to maturity - Sow directly in the ground as soon as the soil can be worked and again in late summer for a fall harvest.  Gurney's Seed & Nursery Co. recommends mixing in some radishes to mark the rows since these seeds germinate more slowly.  The radishes will be finished and picked before the carrots need the room.

Corn, Sweet, Hybrid Gotta Have It - 78 days to maturity - can be started indoors, but can be delicate to transplant.  Planting directly in soil after frost danger is past should be fine.  Birds often try to dig the seeds from the ground before it sprouts so cover it well (1.5 inches deep).  If you're near a wooded area, this is a favorite of raccons...  Also- plant only one type of corn each year or separate them by a couple weeks when planting, cross-pollinating between some varieties can result in tough kernels.  NOTE: I have been dissapointed wiht the germination rate of this seed,  next year I'll try a different variety.

Cucumber, Hybrid Sweet-Slice - 63 days to maturity - Start indoors about 4 weeks before transplanting outdoors, or wait until all danger of frost is past and plant directly in the garden.  A second planting in late June will provide a late season crop.  Pick early to maintain prolific production. 

Leek, American Flag - 140 days to maturity - start indoors as early as possible.  If you use row covers in the fall to keep the frost off the leeks, you can harvest very late in the season - I have even had success letting these overwinter and harvesting in the spring, but it'll depend on how cold it gets during the winter. 

Lettuce, Head, Buttercrunch - 65 days to maturity - Sow outdoors after frost danger is past.  Continue with staggered plantings (2 week intervals) until early June for extended harvest.

Lettuce, Paris White Cos Romaine - 70 days to maturity (but leaves can be picked and eaten anytime) - Plant directly in the ground as soon as it can be worked.  Full Romaine heads are perfect for the barbecue grille (recipe coming soon!)  2008 NOTE: Growing very well, romaine lettuce heads are forming nicely. I am very happy with this variety and will definitely plant again in 2009.

Onion, Evergreen Long White Bunching - ready to harvest in as little as 60 days, but mature at 120 days - start either indoors 4-8 weeks before transplanting, or directly outside when soil is workable.  Plant lots and harvest throughout the summer and fall.  Bunching onions will never form large onion bulbs, but are wonderful for cooking with the chopped up the tall green stems and small white bulb.

Onion, He-Shi-Ko Bunching- 70 days to maturity- plant directly outside as soon as soil is workable.  Plant lots and harvest throughout the summer and fall.  These will never form large onion bulbs, but are wonderful for cooking chopping up the tall green stems and small white bulb.  Harvest for use as soon as they form flower bulbs (or sooner).

Peas, Garden, Maestro - Days to harvest 61 -Plant peas directly in the ground as soon as the soil can be worked, a light frost won't bother them too much.  Continue to plant a new batch every couple of weeks through the spring and you can harvest over and over.  Pick peas early or like beans, they will stop producing if left on the vine too long.  Peas like cold weather, so you can plant again in late July for a fall crop as well.  Note:  These are growing well and producing lots of pods in my garden,  I will definitely plant this varieyt again in 2009.

Pumpkin, Big Max - 110 days to maturity - start indoors as early as possible 8-10 weeks  before transplanting.  Although this variety claims pumpkins up to 100 pounds, we'll believe it when we see it.  This (2008) will be our first year weith this variety.  We usually grow 3-4 ornamental pumkins each year.  This year we want to try some for the table as well.

Spinach, Bloomsdale Long Standing - 42 days to maturity - Plant directly in the garden as soon as the soil can be worked.  Plant again in late summer for a fall crop.  2008 NOTE:  This variety is supposed to be very slow to bolt, but it bolted very, very early for me,  We still had a good yield, but it was a disappointment.  Next year, I'll go with a different variety.

Sunflower, Skyscraper - 75 days to maturity - You can start these indoors about 4 weeks before transplanting or directly outside once the danger of frost is past.  We use the harvested seed in our bird feeders.  Sunflower seeds are a particular favorite of Cardinals, but people like them too!.  (see the Sunscraper hybrid below for more notes!)

Sunflower, Sunscraper Hybrid - The package doesn't say how long to maturity on these, I guess about 65-75 days - You can start these indoors about 4 weeks before transplanting or directly outside once the danger of frost is past.   Squirrels, Mice, and birds love to eat sunflower seeds from the stalk, so be prepared to compete for your harvest perhaps more than anything else in your garden! This taller variety should be safe from squirrels and mice, but the birds will love it.

Swiss Chard, Bright Lights - 55 days to maturity - Plant directly in the ground as soon as the soil can be worked.  Swiss Chard prefers cool weather. 

Tomato, Roma VF (great for cooking and sauces!  We'll add a recipes section with our favorite spaghetti sauce recipe and others soon keep checking for it!) - 75 days to maturity - plant indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting - this plant will keep producing as long as the days are warm and sunny so an early start means a bigger yield!

Tomato, Hybrid Better Boy VFN - 75 days to maturity - plant indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting - this plant will keep producing as long as the days are warm and sunny so an early start means a bigger yield! This one is good for salads, sandwich slices, hamburgers, and any fresh, uncooked preparations.

Watermelon, Crimson Sweet - 88 days to maturity - start indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting.  2007 was ther first year we had any real success with watermelons.  We produced several edible fruits of about 10 inches in diameter.

Winter Squash, Waltham Butternut - 95 days to maturity - start indoors 6-8 weeks before translanting

Winter Squash, Vegetable Spaghetti - 90 days to maturity - another with a long growing season so start 6-8 weeks before transplanting .  The stringy, spaghetti-likw flesh of this sqaush has a very nice, delicate flavor and the novelty of the appearance helps get kids to eat their vegetables.

Red Onion Sets - APPROXIMATELY 85- 100 days to maturity from sets - may vary. These sets can be planted as soon as the ground can be worked. I ordered these from Gurney for 2008, they arrived on April 8th. Their site says 60-75 sets per pint, but I received over 120 sets in my pint. I'll be puttingthese in very early as some of our raised beds are already thawed.  these are a long day variety and will do better with 13 or more hours of daylight each day.  Note: These are doing great, growing well

More vegetables and herbs coming soon.  Check back often!

Jiffy Peat Pellets #7 Wafer-thin fiber coins swell 5 times, to 1 x 1-1/2 inches. Plant directly in garden.

Email us with your comments or topics that you'd like to see covered here!

Square & Round Peat Pots No planting mess! Lets you start seeds and cutting indoors